Thursday 20 September 2012

20.09.12: Tyndrum to Inveroran

Scotland 2, England 0 is how our B&B stops have worked out so far. Those owned and run by Scottish proprietors have both been superb. The one in Tyndrum, run by an English couple, was utterly dire; we were tumbling over ourselves to get out and on the trail this morning. If anyone should ever be thinking of overnighting in Tyndrum, have a word with us first!

The 3 hotels we have used have all, by the way, been just fine. The one we have just arrived at, in Inveroran, has to be one of the most isolated we have ever seen. It is one of three buildings huddled together in the lee of hillsides all around, three miles along a road to nowhere. Exactly as you would imagine a Scottish Highland hotel from an era before Henry Ford starting clogging up the roads with production-line metal boxes.

The walking today was really very undemanding. Most of it - in fact all of it from Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy - was on drove roads or military roads, all of which were metalled or similar. Hard on the feet, though, after a mile or two. The final three miles took us up and over a crest on rocky paths, before dropping down to the tiny hamlet of Inveroran. As I write this, along the hallway from the kitchen, the captivating smells of my dinner tonight are drifting my way. Can I last until 7 p.m.? Oh, I didn't mention the weather. The whole day featured Scottish mizzle, except for when it was raining. True to form, it stopped pretty much as soon as we stepped through the front door of the hotel.

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